The Sibillini Mountains

The Sibillini National Park was an area we were keen to explore - lying partly in Umbria and partly in Le Marche regions. 

Our first stop was a short walk at Sarnano to visit La Cascatelle - a lovely waterfall, much needed for cooling off - today was Ruby’s day 🤣 Although the waterfall is naturally occurring, in the Middle Ages the natural fall was elevated with a stone and brick wall to direct the water in a controlled way for the operation of a mill close by.

A perfect day for Rubes 😃

Can still see some of the brick wall behind the fall

Dave braving it - freezing 🥶 

Feeling refreshed we set off to find our base for the night. Accommodation options were limited, but we had a few up our sleeves. Unfortunately after grappling with downloading an App to gain entry into one Camper Sosta (campervan parking area) at Sarnano, the damn thing wouldn’t activate the barrier - so after dozens of times of trying we gave up. That meant a 20 minute drive to the next Sosta - which when we arrived turned out to have vanished! So Plan C needed to kick in - to head to a lovely campsite with tremendous views of the Sibillini range another 20 mins away, only to find on arrival that it was closed! By now tempers were fraying 😃 Having a tip off that the Sosta in the previous town did exist, but in a difficult location, we set off on another 20 minutes back - the sun was starting to go down by now 🤣 To cut an even longer story short, two quite elderly Italian women helped us find the new Sosta, and even waited for us to turn around (which took some time) to make sure that we found the place we were looking for. They were very happy 🤣 So, after a very stressful hour and a half, and with some kindness of elderly residents (yet again) we arrived in Amandola for the night 👍

After a very peaceful night in the newly positioned Sosta we set off walking to explore the Sibillini National Park - and what a delight! Views were spectacular, and the walking good - made even better by Rubes joining us (she’s refused most walks recently 😢). 

Gaining height very quickly 🤣

Enjoying her walk 😃

Peaceful walking - didn’t see a soul!

Beautiful wilderness

Sibillini also known as the Skyline Mountains 

Leaving Amandola we embarked on what Dave later described as probably the most challenging drive yet - as we worked our way further into the mountain massif. Very steep and twisty roads (Rubes hates that 😢) - and noticed lots of patchy road building going on, as well as prefab building constructions - which felt very out of keeping. Soon put 2+2 together and realised that this is the region which was hit by a devastating earthquake in 2016 - the epicentre being within the Sibillini Mountain range. 

Ended up at Castelluccio - a really interesting higher altitude small town, sadly severely hit by the earthquake. This was our first sighting close up of the devastation caused by the earthquake- the whole region seems to have been affected. Seven years on many businesses are still located in newly constructed prefab buildings, while some new housing has been built on the outskirts of villages. The rebuild has started, but places are obviously struggling. Interesting that village recreation / socialising facilities, as well as tourist facilities, seem to have been prioritised in the redevelopment- perhaps reflecting the importance of community cohesion as well as vital economic ventures. 

The landscape around Castelluccio is absolutely stunning - a wilderness. But interestingly the huge valley plain (Piano Grande) is farmed and cultivated, lentils being the primary crop 😃 The evening sunset was amazing 😻 

The lone poppy

The plain below Castelluccio 

Sunset from Castelluccio

Morning mist hanging over the plain - the Piano Grande

Called at the small town of Castelsantangelo, which is in the process of being rebuilt after the earthquake- ventured into a shop (the one and only!) where the quite elderly shopkeeper was keen to sell me as much as possible - ended up buying some (unintended) lovely Parma ham carved off the bone  - I guess everyone is trying to make a living 👍 Again interesting to see some of the devastation, and the new build that is taking place on the outskirts.

Devastation of Castelsantangelo

Regenerating the village for tourism- Newly installed electric bike charging station 

Travelled on to Norcia, on the western side of the National Park, another town severely devastated by the earthquake, but apparently being rebuilt, funded by a local Cashmere businessman 👍 Norcia is an interesting town, and seemingly once very beautiful - but we didn’t much like the agricampeggio where we stayed, so decided to move on the next day. But we did manage a lovely bike ride along the river before we left 👍

Historic centre of Norcia

Norcia Duomo

Admiring the sweetcorn 🤣

Tunnels just like the Monsal Trail 🤣

We really liked what we saw of the Sibillini National Park - despite the devastation caused by the earthquake, and also the lack of facilities being slightly out of season. So much more to explore though, so perhaps a return visit might be on the cards one day 👍

Arrivederci 😃