Pottering around Umbria

We were keen to explore Umbria, often referred to as the Green Heart of Italy, dominated by medieval hilltop towns, dense forests, and local cuisine & wines. The region is quite small, so short distances between places meant it was possible to nip around 😃

Assisi was our first stop, a stunning hilltop town steeped in history. It’s truly magnificent, perched high on the hill, with stunning buildings and history. Primarily associated with St Francis, who originated from here, is now very much a site of pilgrimage and religious tourism, so not really our scene 🤣 Did seem ironic though that St Francis, having chosen to lead a very frugal life and devote all his energies to supporting the the poor, is celebrated so lavishly within the city, at vast expense! Interesting to see though, but also keen to get away fast! 

Basilica of San Francesco d’Assisi

Wandering through the porticos

Beautiful Assisi

Assisi in the distance 

While in the region we were keen to visit San Pietro a Pettine- a wonderful shop & restaurant specialising in truffles - and much more our scene 😃 First came across them a few years ago when received a bottle of their white truffle oil in a lovely Italian Christmas hamper (courtesy of Sarah & Max 🙏) and it was truly sensational! We’ve been buying this oil ever since! So here was our chance to visit. 

The restaurant is set on the outskirts of Trevi - an ancient hilltop town in Umbria. Opening times were limited, but we managed to work our itinerary around - we had no idea what to expect 😃 The setting is stunning - a huge glass fronted building set behind a gated line of poplar trees, with an absolutely beautiful small church set to the side, illuminated and open to look inside. The meal was sensational! The head waiter talked us through the menu and the different truffles that they sourced and cooked with - we definitely preferred the white to the black truffle 😃 Interestingly that the wine we chose (from a very extensive list) - turned out that the producer was actually sitting on the table behind us!! Chatting with the waiter we’d told him how we had first come across their products - and at the end of the meal he presented us with a jar of their white truffle sauce and one of their oils, as a gift! We were totally surprised - and very grateful 👍 

San Pietro

Looking inside the chapel

Amuse bouche- chicken pate in mini soft croissant

Crispy egg with potato purée, Parmigiano Reggiano Vacche Rosse fondue and
white truffle - a signature dish 😃

Senatore Cappelli single-grain Fusillone “Felicetti” with burnt aubergine cream,  goose ragout, Parmigiano Reggiano mousse, roasted onion powder and black Uncinato truffle

Spaghettone Monograno Senatore Capellini, organic Cau & Spada pecorino di fossa cheese, wild fennel flowers, black Uncinato truffle 

We’d arrived in Trevi at the tail end of the 59th Black Celery and Sausage Festival, held annually 😃 The former is only grown in this region, and dates back to medieval times - celebrated each year as part of the Slow Food movement. Pottering around the town in the morning it looked like the night revelries had been fun! The town centre is ancient - walkways lined with candles, and beautiful old buildings, really medieval - totally authentic and not particularly on the tourist trail. We really liked it here 😃 Bought some lovely olive oil, made in Trevi - Dave keeps reading about the expected shortage / high prices of olive oil expected next year due to the failed olive season this year - so we have to stock up now! 🤣

Breakfast in Trevi

Enjoying breakfast in Trevi

Black Celery over the years - exhibition 

Explored a bit to the west of Trevi - the small town of Bevagna - yet another stunning well preserved walled town 😃 The town was beautiful, and interesting, and walking around the vine dominated countryside was a delight.  Still very hot though, so gelato definitely needed at the end of the walk - we’re learning fast about the quality of gelato in relation to colour and flavours according to what is in season 🤣

Narrow streets and support arches

Interesting olive tree sculpture 

Bevagna over the vines

Much needed 👍

Close by is Montefalco - very famous in the region for wine production, and indeed the town where the wine we had drunk the previous night had been produced - so a little detour to the award winning vineyard at Villa Mongalli was called for to buy a few bottles to bring home 🤣

Yummy 🤣

Umbria is developing its cycling tourism, so focussed on promoting greenways for both biking and walking. Cycle tracks and routes are everywhere. We cycled a stretch of the Assisi-Spoleto route, and was fascinated to see how many people were using it, mainly for walking and daily exercise - something we’ve noticed throughout our travels in Italy - the culture of daily outdoor exercise (I guess the weather helps ☀️) The ride was good, and the scenery beautiful 🤩 

Riding through the grasses - felt lovely as they swept by 🤣

Easy cycling - the sort I love 😃

Travelling west back towards Tuscany we ended up at an interesting agriturismo run by a young couple, with a small holding of animals - sheep, donkeys, rabbits, dogs, cats etc - and interestingly it was the kittens which caused us the most challenge, as they wouldn’t leave Ruby alone - and she really doesn’t like cats! The situation climaxed - the kittens were clambering all over the van, and running across the roof, so after having closed all the van doors, closing the 2 roof vents, locking Ruby inside, we suddenly realised that one of the cats had climbed through the tiny air vent in the bathroom and was now in the van! It was like a comedy cartoon sketch 🤣 I quickly had to get Rubes out of the van while Dave opened the bathroom door to find the kitten sitting on top of the toilet 🤣 Decided this wasn’t the place for us so moved on in the morning 😃

Cheeky little thing 🤣

Oversized seat Art installation by the Agriturismo - how  small we are in the vastness of nature - shame about the weather 😢

Thoroughly enjoyed our exploration of Umbria - beautiful landscapes, well preserved ancient towns - with a real authenticity and charm. Fabulous food too. And all so much quieter than neighbouring Tuscany .

Arrivederci 😃